What are dark circles and their different types ?
Dark circles appear as discolouration or hollowing in the area beneath the eye, giving the eyes a tired appearance. Several types of dark circles can be distinguished, each with very specific causes :
- Pigmented circles : brown colour often linked to genetic hyperpigmentation or aggravated by sunlight.
- Vascular circles : blue or purple colour caused by poor microcirculation and visible vessels through thin skin.
- Hollow circles : anatomical under-eye depression, genetic or related to skin ageing.
Main signs include dark under-eye colour, a hollow, tired-looking eye area and thin skin revealing vessels.
What are under-eye bags and what causes them ?
Unlike dark circles, under-eye bags are swelling of the lower eyelid caused by an accumulation of fat or fluid. They are generally more visible on waking and may fade during the day, but when they become chronic, they indicate skin laxity or weakening of the periocular muscles.
0There are two types of bags :
- Fluid-filled bags : caused by water retention and poor lymphatic circulation. They are often temporary and associated with factors such as lifestyle, lack of sleep or salt consumption.
- Fat bags : displacement of under-eye fat deposits, frequently accentuated by ageing and tissue laxity.
Main signs are persistent or temporary swelling ; a visible bulge even without dark colour ; and heaviness around the orbital area.
How can dark circles and under-eye bags be distinguished ?
Although often confused, circles and bags have different origins and appearances. Simple observations help distinguish them.
When gentle pressure is applied to the lower eyelid, a colour that temporarily fades usually indicates vascular dark circles. If, however, the colour remains unchanged and the hollow remains visible, hollow or pigmented dark circles are more likely. A constant bulge or swelling, even when lying down, indicates an under-eye bag.
Changes throughout the day also provide a clue : bags associated with fluid accumulation are larger on waking and then diminish, whereas dark circles persist from morning to evening, regardless of posture.
Which treatments should be chosen for dark circles and under-eye bags ?
Correcting dark circles first requires identifying their nature.
When dark circles are hollow and associated with infraorbital volume loss, hyaluronic acid injection remains the reference technique. It subtly fills the groove and restores a more harmonious appearance around the eyes.
Pigmented dark circles respond better to gentle chemical peels, certain depigmenting lasers or skincare enriched with brightening ingredients such as vitamin C or niacinamide.
Finally, vascular dark circles, often caused by impaired microcirculation, can be reduced through mesotherapy, which stimulates the capillary network and restores brightness to the periorbital area.
Under-eye bags require a specific approach depending on their origin. Fluid-filled bags, accentuated by water retention, can be reduced through healthier lifestyle habits, including reduced salt intake, appropriate hydration and quality sleep. Manual lymphatic drainage or the application of decongestant cosmetic products, often formulated with caffeine or plant extracts, enhance this improvement. Deeper and more persistent fat bags, however, require surgical management through lower blepharoplasty, which removes excess fat and tightens the skin. Alternatively, certain chemical peels and fractional lasers offer a moderate improvement in skin tone and may help slightly reduce their volume.
What role do hormones play in dark circles and bags ?
Hormonal balance has a decisive influence on skin health and appearance, particularly in the fragile eye contour. Changes in certain hormones directly affect water retention, microcirculation and skin tissue quality, largely explaining why dark circles or bags become more pronounced with age or during periods of physiological imbalance.
Cortisol, the stress hormone, rises significantly during prolonged periods of psychological tension. Excess cortisol disrupts blood and lymphatic circulation, encourages fluid stagnation under the eyes and contributes to fluid-filled bags. It also accelerates the breakdown of collagen and elastin, two proteins essential to maintaining skin firmness, thereby accentuating hollow dark circles and skin laxity.
In women, falling oestrogen levels at menopause cause reduced hydration, decreased collagen synthesis and progressive thinning of the dermis. These changes make dark circles more visible and accentuate the protrusion of fat bags.
In men, the progressive decline in testosterone associated with andropause causes reduced skin density and loss of infraorbital fat volume. The eyes then appear hollower, tired and older, directly reflecting this hormonal change.
At what age do dark circles and bags most often appear ?
Menopause in women and andropause in men are key stages of life during which hormonal upheavals accelerate skin ageing. These periods promote a notable loss of skin tone and elasticity, making the eye contour more vulnerable to dark circles and bags. Added to this are the effects of chronic stress. Far beyond its psychological repercussions, prolonged stress acts directly on the body by disrupting cellular functions and accelerating skin ageing, particularly in the fragile eye contour.
Why do dark circles and bags become more pronounced with age ?
Over time, inevitable physiological changes affect facial structure, especially the periorbital area, considered one of the most fragile. From the age of twenty-five, collagen production begins to decline gradually. This reduction increases over the years and causes a loss of skin firmness and elasticity. The skin around the eyes becomes thinner, loses resilience and becomes more vulnerable to dark circles and bags.
At the same time, the fat compartments beneath the eyes are absorbed or migrate, accentuating hollow dark circles and fat bags. This change in volume interrupts the continuity of the face’s natural curves, giving the eyes a hollower, more tired expression.
Finally, the skin and periocular muscles gradually lose tone. This laxity promotes tissue descent and contributes to visible bags under the eyes, further reinforcing the impression of ageing around the eyes.
Why is the eye contour so susceptible to dark circles and bags ?
The eye contour is one of the most fragile areas of the face. Its extremely thin epidermis — barely 0,5 millimetres thick — provides little protection against external stressors and physiological changes. This thinness makes the area particularly vulnerable to laxity, pigmentation and volume loss.
This anatomical fragility is compounded by constant activity : every day, the eyes perform thousands of micro-movements associated with blinking, facial expressions and muscle contractions. This repeated activity weakens the supporting tissues and accelerates the appearance of fine lines and signs of fatigue.
Finally, blood and lymphatic circulation remain slower here than in other facial regions. This slowing promotes water retention and toxin accumulation, which cause bags and dark circles. The combination of these factors explains why the periorbital area is often the first to reveal signs of fatigue, stress or ageing.
Which factors aggravate dark circles and bags ?
Although some factors responsible for dark circles and bags are unavoidable, many everyday habits can aggravate them.
Sleep, for example, plays a decisive role. Sleeping on your stomach or with your head too low promotes water retention and slows lymphatic drainage, accentuating a swollen eye contour on waking. Conversely, sleeping on your back with your head slightly elevated helps limit this phenomenon.
Hydrating the eye contour is also essential. This area, naturally low in sebaceous glands, dehydrates quickly. Neglecting hydration weakens the skin, accentuates fine lines and makes dark circles more pronounced. Daily application of a specific product enriched with hyaluronic acid, peptides and antioxidant vitamins helps preserve elasticity and brightness around the eyes.
Using unsuitable or overly aggressive cosmetics is another aggravating factor. Certain make-up removers irritate and weaken this delicate area, especially when combined with abrupt movements or repeated rubbing. An impaired skin barrier promotes inflammation, which can accentuate pigmented or vascular dark circles. To protect the skin effectively, formulas specifically designed for the eye contour are recommended : light, refreshing textures in the morning to invigorate the eyes, and richer, nourishing products in the evening to promote overnight regeneration.
How can you tell whether you have dark circles or bags ?
Although often confused, under-eye bags and dark circles involve different mechanisms and require appropriate treatments. An accurate diagnosis by a physician helps identify the most effective solution and avoid management errors.
Depending on the situation, several solutions are available to restore brightness and harmony to the eyes. Non-invasive aesthetic medical techniques provide visible, natural results. In more pronounced cases, aesthetic surgery remains an effective, lasting option. Whatever approach is chosen, the goal remains the same : to reduce signs of fatigue and restore the brightness of rested-looking eyes.
