What causes dehydrated skin ?
Skin dehydration involves two main mechanisms : increased water loss and reduced ability to retain water.
The first mechanism concerns increased transepidermal water loss, a natural process through which the epidermis releases a small amount of water each day. When the hydrolipidic film is impaired, this loss accelerates and exceeds the skin's compensatory capacity. Many factors can weaken this protective film : excessively harsh cleansing, repeated weather exposure, cold, dry air, pollution, altitude or excessive use of irritating skincare.
The second mechanism involves impairment of natural moisturising factors in the stratum corneum. Naturally occurring hygroscopic molecules, collectively known as Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF), including amino acids and certain proteins, retain water and ensure good cell cohesion. When their concentration declines, the skin loses its ability to absorb water and becomes rougher.
Skin ageing is an aggravating factor. With age, endogenous hyaluronic acid synthesis declines, the skin barrier thins and microcirculation changes. These changes contribute to chronic dehydration and superficial fine lines, sometimes mistaken for structural wrinkles.
Lifestyle also plays a major role. Insufficient hydration, a diet low in essential fatty acids, stress, fatigue and smoking directly affect skin barrier quality and the epidermis's ability to retain water. In some cases, hormonal changes, particularly during perimenopause, intensify the process.
What are the signs of
dehydrated skin ?
Diagnosing dehydrated skin involves examining the skin and taking the patient's history. The skin looks dull, fragile and often uncomfortable. Fine horizontal or network-like lines mainly appear around the eyes, on the cheeks and in the nasolabial folds. Tightness, especially after washing the face, is a common sign.
Dehydrated skin lacks suppleness to the touch and sometimes shows fine flaking. Examination reveals an uneven texture, indicating poor cohesion between corneocytes.
Dr Romano also assesses potential triggers : an unsuitable cosmetic routine, recent cold exposure, hormonal changes, seasonal changes or drying dermatological treatment.
In some cases, specific skin analysis tools can objectively assess water loss, measure stratum corneum hydration or evaluate hydrolipidic film integrity. These parameters help define a precise, personalised treatment strategy.
How can dehydrated skin be repaired ?
In aesthetic medicine, managing dehydrated skin involves treatments that restore deep hydration, strengthen the skin barrier and improve dermal quality.
Skinboosters
Skinboosters are the standard treatment. They involve injecting lightly cross-linked hyaluronic acid into the dermis for deep, lasting hydration. Skinboosters improve skin luminosity, suppleness and quality with a gradual, natural effect.
In clinical practice, patients who regularly receive cross-linked hyaluronic acid injections show signs of skin dehydration far less frequently. Although these injections are primarily intended to restore volume or strengthen certain facial structures, they offer an additional benefit : hyaluronic acid, a naturally highly hygroscopic molecule, can attract and retain several hundred times its own weight in water, helping maintain lasting tissue hydration.
Mesotherapy
Revitalising mesotherapy, consisting of a cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants and non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid, stimulates microcirculation and strengthens water reserves in the superficial dermis. It is particularly indicated for dehydration associated with a tired or uneven complexion.
Gentle peels
Gentle peels, particularly those based on glycolic or mandelic acid, promote cell renewal and improve stratum corneum cohesion, optimising the skin's water retention capacity.
Radiofrequency
Radiofrequency can be offered to improve overall skin quality, as it stimulates collagen synthesis and increases skin density, indirectly improving hydration.
Which skincare routine suits
dehydrated skin ?
A skincare routine for dehydrated skin should primarily restore the skin barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss and optimise water retention in the stratum corneum. Cleansing should be gentle to preserve the hydrolipidic film and avoid increasing tightness. Daily application of a moisturising serum containing hygroscopic molecules such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine or urea promotes water capture and retention in the epidermis. Niacinamide-enriched formulations can also strengthen the skin barrier by improving corneocyte cohesion. Moisturiser should be chosen according to season and skin condition : lighter in warm weather, richer and more protective in cold weather to limit water evaporation. A gentle exfoliant once or twice a week facilitates cell renewal and optimises penetration of moisturising active ingredients. Daily sun protection is essential, as UV rays impair barrier function and worsen dehydration. A consistent, regular routine adapted to skin physiology gradually restores comfort, suppleness and radiance.
Results : can dehydrated skin return to normal ?
The results of skin dehydration treatments are extensively documented in scientific literature, particularly for Skinboosters, revitalising mesotherapy and certain superficial peels. Several studies have demonstrated Skinboosters' effectiveness for deep hydration and skin quality. A multicentre study by Micheels and colleagues (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2013) showed a significant increase in dermal hydration measured by corneometry, alongside improved skin elasticity and a notable reduction in dehydration fine lines after two to three sessions. These results were confirmed by Sparavigna et al. (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2016), who report lasting improvements in skin suppleness and radiance for up to nine months after the initial protocol and emphasise regular maintenance sessions. Revitalising mesotherapy also has supporting clinical data : a study by Hexsel et al. published in Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011) shows measurable improvements in hydration, skin softness and radiance after three to four sessions, with benefits optimised by maintenance. Superficial AHA peels, particularly glycolic acid, have demonstrated their ability to improve stratum corneum cohesion and reduce transepidermal water loss ; research by Van Scott and Yu (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1984) showed improved water retention capacity and skin quality after repeated applications. These findings converge on a robust conclusion : correcting skin dehydration requires repeated sessions with cumulative effects, subsequently consolidated by regular maintenance to achieve lasting, objectively measurable improvement.
Prices
Prices vary according to the techniques used and number of sessions required. A medical peel session costs 250 CHF, while radiofrequency treatment starts from 250 CHF. Revitalising mesotherapy costs 300 CHF per session, , and Skinboosters cost 400 CHF per syringe.
Frequently asked questions about dehydrated skin
Dehydrated skin and dry skin : are they the same thing ?
No. Dry skin lacks lipids, whereas dehydrated skin primarily lacks water. All skin types, even oily skin, can be dehydrated.
Can skin be oily and dehydrated ?
Yes. Excess sebum production does not prevent a water deficit. This is common in combination and sensitive skin.
Which medical treatments improve dehydrated skin ?
Skinboosters, revitalising mesotherapy and certain gentle peels are the most effective treatments for restoring deep, lasting hydration.
Are results quick ?
Yes, but they are gradual. Hydration improves from the first weeks, then stabilises with repeated sessions and regular maintenance.
Is a cosmetic routine enough to correct dehydration ?
It significantly improves skin comfort, but when dehydration is substantial, medical treatments are often needed to work more deeply than cosmetic skincare alone.
How often should treatments be repeated ?
Skinboosters are repeated on average every six to nine months, mesotherapy every four to six weeks, and gentle peels at the intervals advised during consultation.
Can dehydration disappear completely ?
Yes, but it can return if triggering factors persist. A well-chosen routine and regular medical skincare maintain lasting skin hydration.
Should my routine change in winter ?
Often, yes. Cold weakens the hydrolipidic film and increases water loss. Richer, more protective textures are recommended during this period.
Can make-up be applied to dehydrated skin ?
Make-up can be applied, but adheres less effectively. Good hydration beforehand provides a more even result.
Can I use the same moisturiser all year round ?
Not always. Skin needs vary with the seasons ; a richer formulation in winter and a lighter one in summer are often necessary.
