Hyaluronic acid: how to choose?
Hyaluronic acid has become essential in skincare and aesthetic medicine treatments. Its hydrating and volumising properties make it useful for treating signs of ageing, deeply hydrating the skin, and beautifying and rejuvenating the face. However, not all hyaluronic acids are identical. Choosing the right type is essential depending on your specific needs and desired results. This article explores the different types available, their applications and how to determine which suits you best.
Hyaluronic acid and its functions
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in our bodies, mainly in the skin, eyes and joints. Its main function is to retain water to keep tissues well hydrated and lubricated. Over time, its concentration in the skin decreases, contributing to loss of elasticity, wrinkles and dry skin.
In aesthetic medicine, hyaluronic acid is used in different forms to address varied needs: hydration, wrinkle filling, volume restoration, non-surgical facelift techniques and improved skin quality.
Different hyaluronic acids and their uses
There are several types of hyaluronic acid, classified mainly by molecular weight and cross-linking. Each has specific properties making it more suitable for certain applications than others.
High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid
Characteristics: this hyaluronic acid has a large molecular size, meaning it remains mainly on the skin surface. It forms a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss.
Applications: commonly used in serums and moisturising creams to hydrate the skin surface and smooth superficial fine lines.
Advantages: ideal for immediate surface hydration. Excellent for people wishing to reduce dehydration lines and give their skin a smoother appearance.
Disadvantages: it does not penetrate deeply into the skin, limiting its effectiveness on deeper wrinkles and volume loss.
Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid
Characteristics: its small molecular size allows this hyaluronic acid to penetrate deeper into the skin, reaching the dermal layers.
Applications: used to treat deeper wrinkles and improve skin elasticity. Often present in serums and formulations designed for a lasting anti-ageing effect.
Advantages: it penetrates deeply to stimulate collagen and elastin production, improving skin firmness and suppleness.
Disadvantages: it does not provide the same sensation of surface hydration as high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. It can also be more expensive.
Cross-linked hyaluronic acid
Characteristics: this hyaluronic acid is chemically modified to form a cross-linked structure, making it more viscous and stable. This structure resists rapid breakdown by the body, producing longer-lasting results.
Applications: used mainly in dermal filler injections to restore lost volume, fill deep wrinkles and redefine facial contours.
Advantages: it provides lasting results (from 6 to 15 months depending on the areas treated and the patient's metabolism). Ideal for volumising treatments such as cheek, lip or nasolabial fold filling.
Disadvantages: it must be injected by an experienced doctor. Injection can cause temporary swelling or bruising.
Non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid
Characteristics: this hyaluronic acid has no cross-links, making it more fluid and less stable than its cross-linked version. It is quickly absorbed by the body.
Applications: used in mesotherapy to improve skin hydration and quality without adding volume.
Advantages: it provides intense hydration and improves skin quality. Perfect for people seeking a radiance boost without volumising effects.
Disadvantages: less lasting than cross-linked hyaluronic acid, requiring more frequent treatments (every 3 to 6 months).
Which type of hyaluronic acid should you choose for your needs?
The choice of hyaluronic acid type depends mainly on your treatment goals and skin characteristics.
For surface hydration and fine line reduction
If your main goal is to hydrate the skin and reduce superficial fine lines, choose a serum formulated with high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. This treatment is particularly suitable for dry or dehydrated skin, quickly providing surface hydration.
Lightweight and non-comedogenic, it is perfectly suited to daily use and helps restore skin comfort, suppleness and radiance.
For improved firmness and reduction of deep wrinkles
Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid is recommended for treating more pronounced wrinkles and improving skin firmness. This product penetrates deeply to stimulate collagen and elastin production, improving skin quality and firmness. It is particularly effective for mature skin or when the first signs of ageing appear.
To restore volume and reshape facial contours
If your goal is to restore facial volume, fill deep wrinkles or redefine contours, cross-linked hyaluronic acid injected by a doctor is the best option. It offers immediate, lasting results and is perfect for treating facial areas that have lost volume with age, such as the cheeks, lips or nasolabial folds.
For deep hydration and improved radiance
If you want to improve skin hydration and overall radiance without adding volume, lightly cross-linked hyaluronic acid is ideal. Used in treatments such as Skinboosters, it intensely hydrates and improves skin quality, providing a brighter, more even complexion.
Hyaluronic acid: current innovations and trends
The beauty and aesthetic medicine industry is evolving rapidly, with new forms of hyaluronic acid appearing regularly. Here are some of the latest trends:
- Multi-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid: these formulas combine several molecular weights to provide both surface hydration and deep penetration. They are ideal for people seeking a comprehensive solution for all levels of dehydration and signs of ageing.
- Combined hyaluronic acid: new formulations combine hyaluronic acid with other active ingredients, such as peptides, antioxidants or vitamins, to provide additional benefits including free radical protection or stimulation of collagen synthesis.
- Encapsulated hyaluronic acid: advanced technologies encapsulate hyaluronic acid to allow sustained release into the skin, providing lasting hydrating and anti-ageing effects.
How to maximise the benefits of hyaluronic acid?
To enjoy the full benefits of hyaluronic acid, applying it appropriately is important. It works more effectively on slightly damp skin, so using a toner or hydrating mist beforehand is advisable. After applying the serum, a moisturising cream seals in moisture and strengthens its action. For lasting results, hyaluronic acid should be incorporated into the daily routine, as its effects increase with regular use.
Conclusion: which type of hyaluronic acid is right for you?
Choosing the right type of hyaluronic acid depends on your specific needs and treatment goals. Whether you seek surface hydration, improved firmness, volume restoration or deep hydration, there is a type suited to your expectations.
