WHAT PRODUCTS ARE USED FOR AESTHETIC INJECTIONS ?

The diversity of injectable products for medical procedures with aesthetic purposes

Medical procedures for aesthetic purposes rely on a range of carefully selected injectable products, whose role is to act directly at the level of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue, targeting well-defined objectives : wrinkle filling, volume restoration, skin quality improvement, or even prevention of skin aging.
These substances are neither interchangeable nor generic : each has distinct biochemical properties, indications, injection protocols, and durations of action, requiring the physician to have in-depth knowledge of their in vivo behavior.
This article provides a comprehensive and rigorous overview of the main categories of products used for aesthetic injections, as well as their specific characteristics.

Contents

Hyaluronic acid : filler injections

Hyaluronic acid is the most widely used product for aesthetic injections. Naturally present in our body, notably in the dermis, cartilage, and synovial fluid, it plays a fundamental role in tissue hydration, elasticity, and regeneration. The hyaluronic acid gels used in aesthetics are synthetic, sterile, resorbable, viscoelastic products, available in various viscosities depending on the indication : superficial wrinkle filling, deep volume restoration, skin hydration, etc.

Hyaluronic acid is indicated for :

  • Correcting static wrinkles (nasolabial folds, marionette lines, perioral fine lines).
  • Restoring lost volumes (cheeks, temples, tear troughs, jawline contour).
  • Plumping the lips.
  • Correcting certain asymmetries or post-traumatic depressions.
  • Performing a medical facelift.
  • Intensively hydrating the skin.

Depending on the gel’s density, its cross-linking (level of cohesion), and the depth of injection, the effects can last between 10 and 15 months, sometimes longer.

Botulinum toxin (Botox®) : treatment of expression lines

Type A botulinum toxin, or Botox, is a purified protein-based medication whose function is to temporarily block nerve transmission between the motor nerve and the muscle, thereby preventing its contraction. Used in very low doses, it is perfectly safe for aesthetic injections.
It is mainly indicated for treating expression lines in the upper third of the face, that is, forehead lines (frontalis muscle), frown lines (corrugator and procerus muscles), and crow’s feet (orbicularis oculi).
Effects appear between 3 to 7 days after the injection, with optimal results at 15 days, and an average duration of action of 4 to 6 months. Unlike hyaluronic acid, botulinum toxin does not have a volumizing effect, but works by preventing the formation of skin wrinkles caused by repeated muscle movements.
Its use requires a perfect knowledge of facial muscle anatomy, as a poorly performed injection can cause asymmetry, eyebrow drooping, eyelid ptosis, and many other complications.

Tissue stimulators : stimulation of natural collagen production

Unlike conventional fillers, collagen stimulators (also called biostimulators) are not intended for immediate filling, but rather to reactivate endogenous collagen production, thereby improving skin density and firmness over the long term.
The main products in this category are calcium hydroxylapatite (Radiesse®), L-polylactic acid (Sculptra®), and polycaprolactone (Ellansé®).
These substances are injected deeply (subcutaneously, or even pre-periosteally) and often require multiple spaced sessions, with results developing gradually over 2 to 3 months and lasting up to 2 years.
They are used notably for moderate sagging of the lower face, neck tightening, and subtle volume restoration in patients who do not wish for immediate filling.

Skinboosters : deep skin hydration

Skinboosters represent another form of hyaluronic acid use, lightly cross-linked, sometimes combined with vitamins, amino acids, or antioxidants. Injected in small doses into the mid or superficial dermis, they hydrate the skin from within, improving its quality, radiance, and firmness.
These treatments do not affect facial volumes. They are particularly suitable for dehydrated or mature skin, and can be injected in the face, neck, décolleté, or the back of the hands. They also constitute an interesting preventive approach against skin aging, starting from the age of 30 to 35.

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) : autologous biostimulation

PRP is a completely natural product, prepared from the patient’s own blood, centrifuged to extract concentrated platelets rich in growth factors. These act as stimulants for cellular regeneration, microcirculation, and collagen synthesis.
PRP is used in aesthetics for overall skin rejuvenation, treatment of vascular dark circles, improvement of skin quality, and even hair stimulation in cases of alopecia.
It does not replace fillers, but constitutes an interesting complement to improve tissue quality.

Strictly regulated products : traceability, certification, and safety

All products injected for aesthetic purposes must obligatorily be :

  • Sterile, injectable, resorbable, unless otherwise specified.
  • CE-marked (European Conformity) or approved by Swissmedic in Switzerland.
  • Traced in the patient file with batch number, injection date, and location.

The physician is responsible for choosing products from recognized laboratories, avoiding uncertified generics, and strictly adhering to storage, preparation, and administration conditions.

Personalization of product choice

There is no « best product », but rather a product suited to each indication, each morphology, each need, and each skin type. This is why a prior medical consultation is essential : it allows the physician to make a precise aesthetic diagnosis, analyze volumes, skin quality, dynamic imbalances, and choose the most appropriate product in a minimal yet sufficient quantity.
It is common, in a comprehensive approach, to combine different types of injections within the same treatment plan (for example : botulinum toxin for the forehead, hyaluronic acid for the folds, and Skinbooster for the neck). This combined strategy allows for a more natural, gradual, and lasting result.

Permanent fillers : products now prohibited 

In the history of medical procedures for aesthetic purposes, certain so-called « permanent » products were long used, notably those based on polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) or injectable silicone. These non-resorbable substances promised long-lasting, even permanent correction. However, their use led to severe and unpredictable complications, often several years after injection : inflammatory granulomas, product migration, nodules, chronic infections.
In Switzerland, as in most Western countries, these products are now prohibited, and their use is considered contrary to good medical practice. Any injection of a non-resorbable substance in an aesthetic context represents a high risk.
That is why today the only authorized products are resorbable, biocompatible, and biodegradable, products for which safety has been widely demonstrated.

Formulation of injectable products : purity, concentration, cross-linking

When talking about injectable products, it is not enough to know their generic name (hyaluronic acid, botulinum toxin, etc.). One must also consider their physicochemical characteristics, as these directly affect the aesthetic result, duration of action, and risk of complications.

For hyaluronic acids :

  • Concentration (mg/mL) : the higher it is, the denser the product and the more suitable for deep areas.
  • Cross-linking : a highly cross-linked hyaluronic acid will be firmer, better suited for structural areas (cheeks, chin), whereas a lightly cross-linked gel will be used for fine wrinkles.
  • Manufacturing technology : certain ranges (Vycross®, RHA®, NASHA®) offer specific formulations to adapt to the dynamics of the face.

For botulinum toxin :

  • The different brands (Botox®, Azzalure®, Bocouture®) differ slightly in their molecular weight, protein complexation rate, and in vivo behavior. An experienced physician will know how to choose the most suitable toxin based on the indication, the patient’s muscle anatomy, and the desired duration.

Associated substances : vitamins, amino acids, antioxidants

In certain protocols, injections combine different active ingredients that do not aim to alter volumes, but to provide the skin with genuine nourishment, protection, and deep revitalization. This type of treatment is called aesthetic mesotherapy or biorevitalization. The injected substances may include :

  • Vitamin C : antioxidant, brightening.
  • B vitamins : cofactors for cellular regeneration.
  • Amino acids : precursors of collagen and elastin.
  • Trace elements : zinc, copper, manganese, involved in enzymatic reactions.
  • Coenzymes : activators of local metabolic activity.

These products are generally administered through multiple small superficial injections, particularly on the face, neck, décolleté, and hands. They do not affect volumes, but improve skin radiance and quality, as a complement to a comprehensive treatment plan.

Photo of doctor Valeria Romano in Geneva

Article written by Dr Romano Valeria

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