Skin pigmentation is a natural process determined by melanin, a pigment produced by cells called melanocytes. Melanin production is influenced by various factors, and dysfunctions in this process can lead to the appearance of pigment spots, which can be aesthetically bothersome.
Indeed, a bright and even-toned skin without spots is a frequent request.
In most cases, skin pigmentation is harmless.
However, when brown spots appear, it is essential to consult a doctor for an accurate diagnosis.
Apart from nevi (moles), pigment lesions may include :
• Age spots (lentigos).
• Melasma.
• Freckles.
• Hyperpigmentation spots : due to increased activity of melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin synthesis, following stimulation (trauma, blemish, medical procedure, application of chemical agents…).
• Spots secondary to fungal infection.
Skin spots, whether brown spots, melasma, sun spots or hyperpigmentation, are a common aesthetic concern that affects the clarity and uniformity of the complexion. In aesthetic medicine, several treatments are available to correct
these skin imperfections and restore smooth, radiant skin. Pigment laser, chemical peels and depigmenting treatments effectively reduce pigment spots for an even skin tone.
Spots result from excessive or irregular melanin production by melanocytes. Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color, and melanocytes are the cells responsible for producing it.
Pigmentation issues are caused by factors that influence melanin production :
• Sun exposure : UV rays stimulate melanin production, which causes tanning, but excessive production leads to persistent spots.
• Hormones : hormonal changes, especially during pregnancy or with oral contraceptives, play a major role in the appearance of melasma.
• Aging : with age, cell renewal slows down and melanocyte activity changes.
• Genetic factors.
• Skin inflammation : infections, acne, skin trauma and even some aesthetic procedures can cause local inflammation that results in post-inflammatory pigmentation.
The main depigmenting ingredients used in aesthetic medicine and creams include :
• Hydroquinone : a powerful inhibitor of melanin production, very effective but regulated to avoid irritation risks. It is found in onions, fruits, seeds, tea, coffee, beer, and wine. Its use is limited to compounded formulations like Kligman’s trio and is banned in over-the-counter cosmetics.
• Arbutin : a hydroquinone derivative found in cranberry and blueberry leaves.
• Kojic acid : derived from rice fermentation, it has natural brightening and antioxidant properties, acting gently on spots.
• Vitamin C : known for its antioxidant effects, it brightens spots while boosting collagen production and giving a more radiant complexion.
• Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) : promote cell renewal, exfoliate the skin’s surface and reduce pigmentation spots.
• Azelaic acid : a gentle ingredient suitable for sensitive skin, it reduces hyperpigmentation and has anti-inflammatory properties.
• Tranexamic acid : an effective depigmenting agent ideal for melasma-prone skin, acting on pigmentation and inflammation.
• Phytic acid : found in cereal grain husks.
• Citric acid : derived from lemon.
• Niacinamide or vitamin B3 : found in plant roots and mushrooms.
These ingredients are often combined to maximize efficacy, providing personalized solutions for a more even and radiant complexion.
To determine appropriate treatments, it is essential to distinguish the different types of pigment spots.
Aesthetic treatments for spots offer effective solutions to reduce their appearance and even out the complexion. Depending on the type of spot (sunspots, melasma, freckles, or post-inflammatory pigmentation) and skin type, laser and chemical peels are the most effective methods.
It is important to understand that treatments eliminate the pigment but do not correct the malfunction of melanocytes. The results are therefore temporary, and pigmentation may reappear one or more years later depending on the patient's lifestyle, particularly sun exposure.
The depigmenting peel is an effective, non-invasive method for treating pigment spots and evening the skin tone.
Suited to pigmentation issues such as melasma, solar lentigos, and post-inflammatory pigmentation, this treatment is based on the application of powerful exfoliating agents such as glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, or kojic acid.
These substances eliminate the skin's superficial layers, encouraging cell renewal and visibly reducing spots.
The combination of these active ingredients yields visible results, with a clear improvement in skin uniformity in 84 % of cases after 2 treatments, a significant reduction (72 %) in melasma, and smoother skin with fewer fine lines after several sessions for 83 % of patients.
Sun exposure is contraindicated for two months. Peels cannot be performed on tanned skin.
The choice of laser depends on the type of spot and the depth of pigmentation.
Two types of lasers may be used :
• Depigmenting laser.
• Ablative laser.
Depigmenting lasers work by emitting a beam of light with an extremely short pulse duration, in the nanosecond range, which fragments the pigment.
Depending on pigment depth, either a Q-switched KTP laser (epidermal pigment) or Nd:YAG Q-switched laser (dermal pigment) is used.
A small scab may appear at the treatment site, which must be kept moisturized daily. One or more sessions may be necessary.
Doctor Romano prefers to use the ablative laser. Its mechanism of action is pigment vaporization. This treatment is more complex to perform but can treat all types of pigmentation (depigmenting lasers are not suitable, for example, for treating melasma). Ablative lasers does not cause post-inflammatory pigmentation.
In fact, although used to remove spots, depigmenting lasers can trigger local inflammation that worsens pigmentation.
It is possible to effectively prevent the appearance of pigment spots and maintain the skin’s natural radiance by adopting certain daily habits :
• Use daily sun protection : apply broad-spectrum sunscreen (minimum SPF 30) every day, even on cloudy days. This protects the skin from UV rays, the primary cause of pigmentation spots.
• Choose antioxidant-rich skincare : creams and serums containing vitamin C, vitamin E, or ferulic acid help neutralize free radicals that damage the skin and stimulate melanin production.
• Keep the skin well hydrated : proper hydration is essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, reducing inflammation and the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation.
• Limit sun exposure : reduce time spent in the sun, especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and wear wide-brimmed hats and protective clothing to reduce the risk of brown spots.
• Use gentle skincare : avoid harsh products or treatments, as repeated inflammation or irritation can lead to post-inflammatory pigmentation.
• Use brightening ingredients preventively : ingredients such as vitamin C or azelaic acid help prevent melanin imbalance, even out the skin tone and reduce early pigmentation.
| Type of consultation | Generally practiced rates |
|---|---|
|
Peel
|
Starting at 200 CHF per session |
|
Laser |
Starting at 200 CHF per session |
Il est difficile de faire disparaître les taches pigmentaires en seulement 3 jours de manière naturelle. Cependant, certains soins peuvent les atténuer :
• Masque au citron (riche en vitamine C) pour éclaircir la peau, à appliquer avec précaution (et jamais avant une exposition solaire).
• Gel d’aloe vera pour apaiser et régénérer la peau.
• Masques au miel et curcuma, aux propriétés éclaircissantes.
Cependant, ces méthodes offrent des résultats progressifs et nécessitent une utilisation régulière.
La majorité des taches pigmentaires, comme les lentigos solaires ou les taches de vieillesse, sont bénignes et sans danger. Toutefois, si une tache change rapidement de forme, de taille ou de couleur, il est recommandé de consulter un dermatologue pour écarter toute suspicion de lésion précancéreuse.
Les principaux facteurs sont :
• L’exposition excessive au soleil sans protection.
• Les changements hormonaux (grossesse, contraception).
• Certains médicaments photosensibilisants.
• Le vieillissement naturel de la peau.
• Le manque de soins adaptés, comme l’absence de protection solaire.
Oui, les taches pigmentaires peuvent réapparaître, surtout si la protection solaire n’est pas rigoureuse. Après un traitement, comme un peeling ou un laser, il est essentiel d’adopter une routine de soins adaptée et de limiter l’exposition au soleil pour prévenir la récidive.
Les taches pigmentaires courantes, comme les lentigos solaires, sont bénignes et ne se transforment pas en cancer. Cependant, une surveillance régulière est essentielle, car certaines lésions cutanées précancéreuses peuvent ressembler à des taches. En cas de doute, une consultation dermatologique est recommandée.
Les taches pigmentaires sont des dépôts de mélanine, souvent plates et liées au soleil ou à l’âge. Les grains de beauté (ou nævus) sont des amas de cellules pigmentaires qui peuvent être plats ou en relief, de couleur uniforme, et apparaissent dès l’enfance ou à l’adolescence. Tout changement suspect d’un grain de beauté nécessite un avis médical.
The services described on this website apply to Swiss territory; there are differences between countries.
Contact
Dr Valeria Romano
Pl. du Molard 5, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland
Monday to Friday, 9.30am to 6pm
Dr Valeria Romano - All rights reserved.
