How to know if hyaluronic acid is working ?

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Does hyaluronic acid really work ?

Hyaluronic acid has become one of the key techniques in skincare and aesthetic-oriented medicine treatments. Its popularity is due to its exceptional ability to hydrate, plump the skin, and reduce the signs of aging. But with so many products available on the market, how can you know if the hyaluronic acid you choose is truly effective ? This article covers the essential criteria for recognizing a high-quality hyaluronic acid, the different forms in which it appears, and the best practices to optimize its benefits.

What exactly is hyaluronic acid ?

Before diving into the criteria for hyaluronic acid’s effectiveness, it is essential to understand what hyaluronic acid (HA) is and its role in skin health. Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in our body, particularly in the skin. It acts like a molecular sponge capable of retaining up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an essential hydrating and volumizing agent.
Avec l’âge, la concentration d’acide hyaluronique diminue, entraînant une perte de volume et de fermeté de la peau, ainsi que l’apparition de rides et de ridules. C’est là que les produits cosmétiques et les injections à base d’acide hyaluronique interviennent pour compenser cette perte naturelle, restaurer la jeunesse de la peau et donner un coup d’éclat.

The different forms of hyaluronic acid : molecular weight and effectiveness

It’s important to understand that not all hyaluronic acids are created equal. They differ mainly in molecular weight, which affects how deeply they penetrate the skin and how visible the results are :

High molecular weight hyaluronic acid : this type is commonly used in creams and serums because it remains on the skin’s surface, forming a barrier that locks in moisture. It’s ideal for superficial hydration.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid : found in higher-end skincare, this type penetrates more deeply into the skin for longer-lasting hydration—though still temporary.
Cross-linked hyaluronic acid : used in injectable dermal fillers, this type is chemically modified with a cross-linking agent to resist degradation. It is more stable and long-lasting, delivering visible results in terms of volume and wrinkle-filling that last between six and twelve months.

To assess the effectiveness of a hyaluronic acid product, it’s essential to understand both its molecular weight and whether it is cross-linked.

Key criteria for effective hyaluronic acid

Several factors determine the performance of a hyaluronic acid product :

The concentration of hyaluronic acid : an effective product must contain a sufficient concentration of hyaluronic acid. This information is indicated on the product label.
The purity of hyaluronic acid : a high-quality hyaluronic acid must be pure and free from impurities. It is important to choose products that clearly state they contain pure hyaluronic acid.
The manufacturing method : the methods used to produce hyaluronic acid can influence its effectiveness. For example, hyaluronic acid obtained through biofermentation (usually from bacterial strains) is considered purer and less likely to cause allergic reactions than animal-derived hyaluronic acid.
Formulation type : the formulation also plays a role.
For injectables, the absence of additional agents increases the product’s efficacy.

For cosmetics, a formula that combines hyaluronic acid with other moisturizing or repairing ingredients, such as vitamin C, peptides, or ceramides, can deliver enhanced results. Serums or gels are generally more effective than creams, as the skin more easily absorbs hyaluronic acid.

Signs of an effective hyaluronic acid product

Several indicators can help you determine whether a hyaluronic acid–based product is effective.

Visible results : a good hyaluronic acid–based product should deliver visible results after just a few uses. Well-hydrated skin should appear smoother and firmer. For injectable products, the results in terms of hydration, filling, and volume should be both visible and long-lasting.
La formulation et la consistance du produit : un produit efficace doit avoir une consistance légère, facilement absorbable par la peau. Les produits qui laissent un film collant ou gras ne permettent pas à l’acide hyaluronique de pénétrer correctement.
The ingredient list : check the list of ingredients to see where hyaluronic acid is placed. If it appears among the first ingredients, it means it is present in a higher concentration and therefore potentially more effective.

Signs of poor quality hyaluronic acid

It is also important to know how to identify the characteristic signs of a low-quality hyaluronic acid–based product.

Lack of visible results : if, after several weeks of use, you notice no improvement in hydration or skin firmness, it is likely that the product does not contain enough hyaluronic acid or that the formula is not effective.
Unwanted skin reactions : although hyaluronic acid is generally well tolerated, a low-quality product may contain impurities or additives that cause irritation, redness, or allergies.
Unclear ingredient list : if the product label does not clearly indicate the type and concentration of hyaluronic acid, it is possible that it is a lower-quality product. Always favor brands that are transparent about the composition of their products.

Choosing the right hyaluronic acid for your needs

To choose the most suitable hyaluronic acid, it is important to clearly define your needs.

For intense hydration : opt for a serum containing high–molecular weight hyaluronic acid. These products retain water on the surface of the skin and are perfect for daily use.
Hyaluronic acid injections such as Skinbooster or mesotherapy injections are the most effective.
To treat wrinkles and fine lines : injectable products (administered by a doctor) are the only effective ones.
For a volumizing effect : cross-linked hyaluronic acid injections, performed by a doctor, are ideal for restoring volume to the cheeks, lips, or filling deep wrinkles.

Why you should see an experienced Ddoctor for hyaluronic acid injections

Si vous envisagez des injections d’acide hyaluronique, il est essentiel de consulter un médecin expérimenté. Voici pourquoi :

Safety and effectiveness : an experienced doctor will know how to choose the most appropriate type of hyaluronic acid and inject it using the correct technique to achieve optimal results without risk.
Personalized treatment : every patient is different, so the treatment must be customized based on your individual needs, skin type and aesthetic goals.

Brands and certifications to look for

To ensure product quality, look for reputable brands and certifications such as :

Dermatological testing : choose products that have been tested under dermatological supervision and supported by clinical studies.
Quality labels : certain labels, such as “cruelty-free” or “paraben-free”, demonstrate quality and transparency.

How to maximise the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid ?

To get the most out of your hyaluronic acid–based product, follow these tips :

Apply on damp skin : hyaluronic acid works best when applied to slightly damp skin. Use a hydrating toner before applying your serum or cream.
Seal in moisture : after applying hyaluronic acid, use a moisturizer to lock in water and maximize the benefits.
Use daily : for optimal results, incorporate hyaluronic acid into your daily skincare routine.

Common myths about hyaluronic acid

Finally, it is important to dispel a few common myths about hyaluronic acid.

““The more, the better” : a very high concentration of hyaluronic acid does not necessarily mean greater effectiveness. Balance is essential to avoid skin irritation.
““It works the same for everyone” : the skin’s response to hyaluronic acid may vary depending on age, skin type, and other individual factors.
“The results are instant and permanent” : although the hydrating effects may be visible immediately, the results are not permanent and require regular use to be maintained.

How to identify effective hyaluronic acid? Conclusion

To recognize an effective hyaluronic acid, it is essential to understand its different forms and molecular weights, to check the concentration, purity, and formulation of the product, and to ensure that it comes from a reliable source. Consult a qualified professional for personalized advice, especially if you are considering injections.

Article written by Dr Romano Valeria

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