How do you know if hyaluronic acid is effective?

Does hyaluronic acid really work?

L'hyaluronic acid has become one of the leading techniques in skin care and aesthetic medicine treatments. Its popularity is due to its exceptional ability to moisturise, plump the skin and reduce the signs of ageing. But with so many different products on the market, how do you know if the hyaluronic acid you choose is really effective? This article looks at the essential criteria for recognising quality hyaluronic acid, the different forms it comes in and good practices for optimising its benefits.

Contents

What exactly is hyaluronic acid?

Before delving into the criteria for the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid, it is essential to understand what hyaluronic acid (HA) is and its role in skin health. Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in our bodies, particularly in the skin. It acts like a molecular sponge capable of retaining up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an essential moisturising and volumising agent.

As we age, the concentration of hyaluronic acid decreases, leading to a loss of volume and firmness in the skin, as well as the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This is where hyaluronic acid-based cosmetics and injections come in to compensate for this natural loss and restore the skin's radiance and youthfulness.

The different forms of hyaluronic acid: molecular weight and efficacy

It's crucial to know that not all hyaluronic acids are created equal. They differ mainly in their molecular weight, which influences their ability to penetrate the skin and deliver visible results:

  • High molecular weight hyaluronic acid: this type of hyaluronic acid is used in creams and serums because it remains on the surface, forming a barrier that retains water. It is therefore ideal for hydrating the skin's surface.
  • Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: this hyaluronic acid is contained in certain cosmetics which are more expensive because it penetrates more deeply for longer-lasting hydration, but remains ephemeral. 
  • Cross-linked hyaluronic acid: used in injectable products and dermal filler injections, this hyaluronic acid is chemically modified by complexing it with a cross-linking agent that prevents its degradation. This makes it more stable and durable, with results in terms of filling and volume lasting between six and twelve months.

To assess the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid, it is essential to know its molecular weight and cross-linking.

Key criteria for effective hyaluronic acid

To assess the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid, several criteria need to be taken into account.

  • Concentration of hyaluronic acid: an effective product must contain a sufficient concentration of hyaluronic acid. This information can be found on the product label.
  • The purity of hyaluronic acid: quality hyaluronic acid must be pure and free from impurities. You should opt for products that clearly state that they contain pure hyaluronic acid.
  • The method of manufacture: the methods used to manufacture hyaluronic acid can influence its effectiveness. For example, hyaluronic acid obtained by biofermentation (generally from strains of bacteria) is considered purer and less likely to cause allergic reactions than hyaluronic acid of animal origin.
  • The type of formulation The formulation of the product also plays an important role in its effectiveness.
    For injectable products, the absence of associated products increases their effectiveness.

In cosmetics, a formula that combines hyaluronic acid with other moisturising or repairing ingredients, such as vitamin C, peptides or ceramides, can offer improved results. Serums or gels are generally more effective than creams, as hyaluronic acid is more easily absorbed by the skin.

 

Indicators of an effective hyaluronic acid product

Several indicators can help you determine whether a hyaluronic acid-based product is effective.

  • Visible results: a good hyaluronic acid product should produce visible results after just a few uses. Well-hydrated skin should appear smoother and firmer. For injectable products, the results in terms of hydration, filling and volume must be visible and long-lasting.
  • The texture and consistency of the product: an effective product should have a light texture that is easily absorbed by the skin. Products that leave a sticky or greasy film do not allow the hyaluronic acid to penetrate properly.
  • The list of ingredients: check the list of ingredients to see where hyaluronic acid is placed in the order. If it is listed among the first ingredients, this means that it is present in large quantities and therefore potentially more effective.

Signs of poor quality hyaluronic acid

It's also important to be able to spot the characteristic signs of a poor-quality hyaluronic acid product.

  • No visible results: if, after several weeks' use, you don't notice any improvement in skin hydration or firmness, it's likely that the product doesn't contain enough hyaluronic acid or that the formula isn't effective.
  • Undesirable skin reactions: although hyaluronic acid is generally well tolerated, a poor-quality product may contain impurities or additives that cause irritation, redness or allergies.
  • Unclear list of ingredients: if the product label does not clearly specify the type and concentration of hyaluronic acid, it may be an inferior product. Always go for brands that are transparent about the composition of their products.

Choosing the right hyaluronic acid for your needs

To choose the most suitable hyaluronic acid, it's important to clearly define your needs.

  • For intense hydration: opt for a serum containing high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. These products retain water on the skin's surface and are ideal for daily use.
    Hyaluronic acid injections such as Skinbooster or injections of mesotherapy are the most effective.
  • To treat wrinkles and fine lines: injectable products (injected by a doctor) are the only effective ones.
  • For a volumising effect: injections of cross-linked hyaluronic acid, carried out by a doctor, are ideal for restoring volume to the cheeks and lips, or filling in deep wrinkles.

The importance of consulting an experienced doctor for hyaluronic acid injections

If you are considering hyaluronic acid injections, it is essential to consult a qualified professional. Here's why:

  • Safety and efficacy: an experienced doctor will be able to choose the most appropriate type of hyaluronic acid and inject it using the right technique to obtain optimal results without risk.
  • Personalised treatment: every patient is unique, so the treatment must be tailored to your specific needs, skin type and aesthetic expectations.

Brands and certifications to look for

To make sure you are buying a quality product, look for reputable brands and check whether they have certifications such as :

  • Dermatological certifications Choose products that have been dermatologically tested and clinically proven to be effective.
  • Quality labels Certain labels, such as "cruelty-free" or "formulated without parabens", demonstrate quality and transparency.

How can I maximise the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid?

To get the most out of your hyaluronic acid product, follow these tips:

  • Apply to damp skin: hyaluronic acid works best when applied to slightly damp skin. Use a moisturising toner before applying your serum or cream.
  • Seal in the moisture: after applying hyaluronic acid, use a moisturiser to seal in the water and maximise the benefits.
  • Use daily: for optimum results, make hyaluronic acid part of your daily skincare routine.

Common myths about hyaluronic acid

Finally, it is important to dispel a few common myths about hyaluronic acid.

  • The more the better": too high a concentration of hyaluronic acid does not necessarily mean greater efficacy. A balance is needed to avoid skin irritation.
  • It works in the same way for everyone": the skin's response to hyaluronic acid can vary according to age, skin type and other individual factors.
  • "Results are instant and permanent": although the moisturising effects can be seen immediately, the results are not permanent and require regular use to be maintained.

How do you recognise effective hyaluronic acid? Conclusion

To recognise effective hyaluronic acid, it is essential to understand its different forms and molecular weights, to check the concentration, purity and formulation of the product and to ensure that it comes from a reliable source. Consult a qualified professional for personalised advice, especially if you are considering injections.

Photo of doctor Valeria Romano in Geneva

Article written by Dr Romano Valeria

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