Collagen or hyaluronic acid ? Which is better for the skin ?

What are hyaluronic acid and collagen ?

In the world of skincare, two ingredients are often highlighted for their anti-aging and hydrating benefits : collagen and hyaluronic acid. These two elements play essential roles in preserving the youth and radiance of the skin, but which one is truly the most important ? To answer this question, it is necessary to understand what collagen and hyaluronic acid are, their respective functions, and how they interact to keep the skin healthy and beautiful.
In this article, we will compare these two key components, explore their benefits, and provide some advice to determine which one may be the most beneficial for your skin.

Contents

What is collagen ?

The collagen is an essential structural protein found throughout the body. It represents about 30 % of the body’s total proteins and 70 % of the skin’s composition. Collagen is found mainly in the dermis, the intermediate layer of the skin, where it forms a network that acts as support for the skin. This collagen network gives the skin its firmness and its strength. With age, the natural production of collagen decreases, which leads to skin laxity, wrinkles and a loss of volume.

What is hyaluronic acid ?

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in the body, mainly in the skin, joints, and eyes. Unlike collagen, hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan — a long sugar chain that retains water and can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. This makes it a powerful and natural skin moisturizer. As we age, the production of hyaluronic acid also decreases, which is why the skin becomes drier, duller, and wrinkles appear, such as the nasolabial folds, marionette lines, and lip wrinkles.

Role of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin

The collagen acts like scaffolding that maintains the structure of the skin. It is responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. When the production of collagen slows down over time, the skin loses its firmness, wrinkles form and the skin begins to sag. Studies show that the loss of collagen starts as early as the age of 25, and can reach up to 1 % per year after that age. That is why many anti-aging treatments include ingredients that stimulate collagen production or contain collagen directly.
The hyaluronic acid is an exceptional moisturizing agent that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping maintain its hydration and suppleness. It also plays a role in wound healing and in protection against damage caused by free radicals. Well-hydrated skin is plumper, smoother and has fewer wrinkles. The hyaluronic acid is therefore essential for the elasticity and radiance of the skin : hyaluronic acid injections are part of the Skin Prevent, Skin Restore and Skin Training protocols.

Hyaluronic acid vs collagen

To understand which is more important for the skin, let’s compare the two across several criteria.

Skin hydration
The hyaluronic acid for the skin is one of the best active ingredients that exist for hydration. Thanks to its unique ability to retain water, it helps maintain hydration in the deeper layers of the skin. The collagen, on the other hand, does not have this water-attracting ability. The hyaluronic acid is therefore generally preferred for treatments that aim for intense hydration.

Firmness and elasticity of the skin
The collagen is responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Without enough collagen, the skin becomes saggy and wrinkles form. Although the hyaluronic acid can temporarily improve the appearance of wrinkles by plumping them, it cannot replace the structural role of collagen in the skin.

Skin repair
Hyaluronic acid also plays a role in tissue repair and wound healing.
Collagen is also crucial for tissue repair, as it forms a matrix on which new skin cells can grow.

Anti-aging effects
Both, the collagen and the hyaluronic acid, are essential for fighting the signs of aging. The hyaluronic acid acts mainly by hydrating the skin, while the collagen strengthens the structure of the skin and reduces the depth of wrinkles or prevents their appearance.

The benefits of hyaluronic acid for the skin

The benefits of hyaluronic acid for the skin are numerous and varied. Here are some of the most important ones.

  • Deep hydration : the hyaluronic acid attracts and retains water, thus keeping the skin hydrated and soft. This hydration helps smooth the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
  • Improvement of skin texture : by hydrating the skin, the hyaluronic acid improves its quality and suppleness. The skin appears smoother and firmer, with a visible reduction in pores and irregularities.
  • Reduction of signs of skin aging : by plumping the skin, the hyaluronic acid decreases the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, especially around the eyes and lips, areas where the skin is thinner and more vulnerable to signs of aging.
  • Protection against free radicals : the hyaluronic acid also helps protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals, which can accelerate aging.

The benefits of collagen for the skin

The benefits of collagen for the skin are also numerous and essential for maintaining a youthful skin.

  • Strengthening of the skin’s structure : the collagen is the main component of the skin’s connective tissue, which gives it its strength and firmness. By increasing collagen levels, one can help prevent skin sagging and the formation of wrinkles.
  • Healing and repair : the collagen is essential for wound healing. This component helps repair skin damage, such as acne scars and post-inflammatory marks.
  • Improvement of skin elasticity : with age, the skin loses its elasticity as collagen decreases. By increasing collagen levels, one can improve the elasticity of the skin, making it firmer and less prone to wrinkles.

Hyaluronic acid or collagen : which should you choose for your skin ?

The answer to this question depends on your specific skincare goals.

  • For intense and rapid hydration : hyaluronic acid
    If your main goal is to hydrate your skin deeply, improve its quality and soften fine lines, the hyaluronic acid is the best choice. It is particularly useful for dehydrated, dull skin or for skin showing early signs of aging.
  • To improve the firmness and elasticity of the skin : collagen
    If you are looking to strengthen the structure of your skin, improve its firmness and reduce deep wrinkles, the collagen is the best choice. In addition, treatments that stimulate the natural production of collagen, such as the ablative laser or peelings, can be beneficial.
  • Combining both for a synergistic effect
    In reality, the most effective approach to fighting skin aging is to combine both.

What to do to increase hyaluronic acid or collagen in the skin ?

If you want to improve the quality of your skin and increase the levels of hyaluronic acid and collagen, there are specific aesthetic treatments : the Skinboosters for hyaluronic acid and collagen stimulators such as Sculptra for collagen.
The Skinboosters are injections of hyaluronic acid that hydrate the skin in depth and improve its quality and radiance, for a younger and more luminous skin. Unlike classic hyaluronic acid injections used to fill wrinkles, the Skinboosters are injected more superficially to hydrate and plump the skin without giving volume.
Sculptra contains poly-L-lactic acid, which acts gradually to strengthen the structure of the skin by increasing collagen production. This treatment is ideal for improving the firmness and elasticity of the skin, and it is particularly effective for areas where skin laxity is noticeable, such as the cheeks and cheekbones.

Photo of doctor Valeria Romano in Geneva

Article written by Dr Romano Valeria

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