Collagen or hyaluronic acid? Which is better for the skin ?

What are hyaluronic acid and collagen ?

In the world of skincare, two ingredients are often highlighted for their anti-aging and hydrating benefits : collagen and hyaluronic acid. These two elements play essential roles in preserving the skin’s youth and Skin Radiance, but which one is truly more important ? To answer that question, we need to understand what collagen and hyaluronic acid are, their respective functions, and how they work together to maintain healthy, beautiful skin.

In this article, we will compare these two key components, explore their benefits, and provide tips to help you determine which might be most beneficial for your skin.

Contents

What is collagen ?

Collagen is an essential structural protein found throughout the body. It accounts for about 30 % of total body protein and 70 % of the skin’s composition. Collagen is mainly located in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin, where it forms a network that acts as a support system. This collagen network gives the skin its firmness and strength. As we age, the body’s natural collagen production decreases, leading to sagging skin, wrinkles, and volume loss.

What is hyaluronic acid ?

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in the body, mainly in the skin, joints, and eyes. Unlike collagen, hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan—a long sugar chain that retains water and can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. This makes it a powerful and natural moisturizer for the skin. With age, the production of hyaluronic acid also decreases, which is why skin becomes drier, duller, and wrinkles start to appear, such as nasolabial fold, marionette lines and lip wrinkles.

Role of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin

Collagen acts as scaffolding that maintains the skin’s structure. It is responsible for the skin’s firmness and elasticity. When collagen production slows down over time, the skin loses its firmness, wrinkles form, and sagging begins. Studies show that collagen loss begins as early as age 25, and can reach up to 1 % per year after that. This is why many anti-aging treatments include ingredients that stimulate collagen production or contain collagen directly.

Hyaluronic acid is an exceptional hydrating agent that draws and retains water in the skin, helping maintain hydration and suppleness. It also plays a role in wound healing and protection against damage caused by free radicals. Well-hydrated skin appears plumper, smoother, and less wrinkled. Hyaluronic acid is therefore essential for the elasticity and glow of the skin : hyaluronic acid injections are part of protocols such as Skin Prevent, Skin Restore and Skin Training.

Hyaluronic acid vs collagen

To understand which is more important for the skin, let’s compare the two across several criteria.

Moisturising the skin
hyaluronic acid for the skin is one of the best active ingredients available for hydration. Thanks to its unique ability to retain water, it helps to maintain hydration in the deeper layers of the skin. Collagen, on the other hand, does not have this water-retaining capacity. Hyaluronic acid is therefore generally preferred for skincare products that aim for intense hydration.

Skin firmness and elasticity
collagen is responsible for the skin's firmness and elasticity. Without sufficient collagen, skin becomes flabby and wrinkles form. Although hyaluronic acid can temporarily improve the appearance of wrinkles by plumping them up, it cannot replace the structural role of collagen in the skin.

Skin repair
Hyaluronic acid also plays a role in tissue repair and wound healing.
Collagen is also crucial for tissue repair, as it forms a matrix on which new skin cells can grow.

Anti-aging effects
Both collagen and hyaluronic acid are essential in fighting signs of aging.
Hyaluronic acid works mainly by hydrating the skin, while collagen strengthens the skin’s structure and reduces the depth of wrinkles or helps prevent their formation.

The benefits of hyaluronic acid for the skin

Hyaluronic acid offers numerous and varied benefits for the skin. Here are some of the most important :

  • Deep hydration : hyaluronic acid draws and retains water, keeping the skin hydrated and soft. This hydration helps smooth the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
  • Improved skin texture : by hydrating the skin, hyaluronic acid improves its texture and suppleness. The skin appears smoother and firmer, with a visible reduction in pores and irregularities.
  • Reduction of visible signs of aging : by plumping the skin, hyaluronic acid reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, especially around the eyes and lips, where the skin is thinner and more vulnerable to signs of aging.
  • Protection against free radicals : hyaluronic acid also helps protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which can accelerate aging.

The benefits of collagen for the skin

Collagen also offers numerous and essential benefits for maintaining youthful skin :

  • Strengthening the skin’s structure : collagen is the main component of the skin’s connective tissue, giving it strength and firmness. Increasing collagen levels can help prevent sagging skin and wrinkle formation.
  • Healing and repair : collagen is essential for healing. This component helps repair skin damage, such as acne scars and post-inflammatory marks.
  • Improved skin elasticity : as we age, the skin loses elasticity as collagen decreases. By boosting collagen levels, skin elasticity improves, making the skin firmer and less prone to wrinkles.

Hyaluronic acid or collagen : which should you choose for your skin ?

The answer to this question depends on your specific skincare goals.

  • For intense and fast hydration : hyaluronic acid
    If your main goal is to deeply hydrate your skin, improve its texture, and reduce fine lines, hyaluronic acid is the best choice. It is especially useful for dehydrated, dull skin or skin showing early signs of aging.
  • To improve skin firmness and elasticity : collagen
    If you're looking to strengthen your skin’s structure, improve its firmness, and reduce deep wrinkles, collagen is the best choice. In addition, treatments that stimulate natural collagen production—such as ablative lasers or peels—can be beneficial.
  • Combining both for a synergistic effect
    In reality, the most effective approach to fighting skin aging is to combine both.

What to do to increase hyaluronic acid or collagen in the skin ?

If you want to enhance your skin’s appearance and increase levels of hyaluronic acid and collagen, specific aesthetic treatments exist : Skinboosters for hyaluronic acid, and collagen inducers such as Sculptra.

Skinboosters are hyaluronic acid injections that deeply hydrate the skin and improve its texture and glow, for younger and more radiant skin. Unlike traditional hyaluronic acid injections used to fill wrinkles, Skinboosters are injected more superficially to hydrate and plump the skin without adding volume.

Sculptra contains poly-L-lactic acid, which gradually strengthens the skin’s structure by increasing collagen production. This treatment is ideal for improving firmness and elasticity, and it is particularly effective for areas where skin laxity is more noticeable, such as the cheeks and cheekbones.

Photo of doctor Valeria Romano in Geneva

Article written by Dr Romano Valeria

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