Collagen or hyaluronic acid ? Which is better for the skin ?

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Qu’est-ce que l’acide hyaluronique et le collagène?

In the world of skincare, two ingredients are often highlighted for their anti-aging and hydrating benefits : collagen and hyaluronic acid. These two elements play essential roles in preserving the skin’s youth and Skin Radiance, but which one is truly more important ? To answer that question, we need to understand what collagen and hyaluronic acid are, their respective functions, and how they work together to maintain healthy, beautiful skin.

In this article, we will compare these two key components, explore their benefits, and provide tips to help you determine which might be most beneficial for your skin.

What is collagen ?

Collagen is an essential structural protein found throughout the body. It accounts for about 30 % of total body protein and 70 % of the skin’s composition. Collagen is mainly located in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin, where it forms a network that acts as a support system. This collagen network gives the skin its firmness and strength. As we age, the body’s natural collagen production decreases, leading to sagging skin, wrinkles, and volume loss.

What is hyaluronic acid ?

L’hyaluronic acid est une molécule naturellement présente dans le corps, principalement dans la peau, les articulations et les yeux. Contrairement au collagène, l’acide hyaluronique est un glycosaminoglycane, une longue chaîne de sucre qui retient l’eau, capable de contenir jusqu’à 1000 fois son poids en eau. Cela en fait un hydratant puissant et naturel pour la peau. Avec l’âge, la production d’acide hyaluronique diminue également, c’est pourquoi la peau devient plus sèche, plus terne et les wrinkles start to appear, such as nasolabial fold, plis d’amertume and lip wrinkles.

Role of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin

Le collagène agit comme un échafaudage qui maintient la structure de la peau. Il est responsable de la fermeté et de l’élasticité de la peau. Lorsque la production de collagène ralentit avec le temps, la peau perd de sa fermeté, les rides se forment et la peau commence à s’affaisser. Des études montrent que la perte de collagène commence dès l’âge de 25 ans, et peut atteindre jusqu’à 1 % par an après cet âge. C’est pourquoi de nombreux soins anti-âge incluent des ingrédients qui stimulent la production de collagène ou contiennent du collagène directement.

hyaluronic acid est un agent hydratant exceptionnel qui attire et retient l’eau dans la peau, aidant à maintenir son hydratation et sa souplesse. Il joue également un rôle dans la cicatrisation des plaies et la protection contre les dommages causés par les radicaux libres. Une peau bien hydratée est plus rebondie, lisse et a moins de rides. L’acide hyaluronique est donc essentiel pour l’élasticité et la luminosité de la peau : les injections d’acide hyaluronique font partie des protocoles Skin Prevent, Skin Restore and Skin Training.

Hyaluronic acid vs collagen

To understand which is more important for the skin, let’s compare the two across several criteria.

Moisturising the skin
Hyaluronic acid for the skin est l’un des meilleurs actifs qui existent pour l’hydratation. Grâce à sa capacité unique à retenir l’eau, il aide à maintenir l’hydratation dans les couches profondes de la peau. Le collagène, en revanche, n’a pas cette capacité d’appel d’eau. L’acide hyaluronique est donc généralement préféré pour les soins qui visent une hydratation intense.

Skin firmness and elasticity
Collagen est responsable de la fermeté et de l’élasticité de la peau. Sans suffisamment de collagène, la peau devient flasque et les rides se forment. Bien que l’acide hyaluronique puisse temporairement améliorer l’apparence des rides en les repulpant, il ne peut pas remplacer le rôle structurel du collagène dans la peau.

Skin repair
Hyaluronic acid also plays a role in tissue repair and wound healing.
Collagen is also crucial for tissue repair, as it forms a matrix on which new skin cells can grow.

Anti-aging effects
Both collagen and hyaluronic acid are essential in fighting signs of aging.
Hyaluronic acid works mainly by hydrating the skin, while collagen strengthens the skin’s structure and reduces the depth of wrinkles or helps prevent their formation.

The benefits of hyaluronic acid for the skin

Hyaluronic acid offers numerous and varied benefits for the skin. Here are some of the most important :

Deep hydration : hyaluronic acid draws and retains water, keeping the skin hydrated and soft. This hydration helps smooth the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Improved skin texture : by hydrating the skin, hyaluronic acid improves its texture and suppleness. The skin appears smoother and firmer, with a visible reduction in pores and irregularities.
Reduction of visible signs of aging : by plumping the skin, hyaluronic acid reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, especially around the eyes and lips, where the skin is thinner and more vulnerable to signs of aging.
Protection against free radicals : hyaluronic acid also helps protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which can accelerate aging.

The benefits of collagen for the skin

Collagen also offers numerous and essential benefits for maintaining youthful skin :

Renforcement de la structure de la peau : le collagène est le composant principal du tissu conjonctif de la peau, ce qui lui donne sa force et sa fermeté. En augmentant les niveaux de collagène, on peut aider à prévenir l’affaissement de la peau et la formation de rides.
Cicatrisation et réparation : le collagène est essentiel pour la cicatrisation. Ce composant aide à réparer les dommages cutanés, tels que les cicatrices d’acné et les marques post-inflammatoires.
Improved skin elasticity : as we age, the skin loses elasticity as collagen decreases. By boosting collagen levels, skin elasticity improves, making the skin firmer and less prone to wrinkles.

Hyaluronic acid or collagen : which should you choose for your skin ?

The answer to this question depends on your specific skincare goals.

For intense and fast hydration : hyaluronic acid
If your main goal is to deeply hydrate your skin, improve its texture, and reduce fine lines, hyaluronic acid is the best choice. It is especially useful for dehydrated, dull skin or skin showing early signs of aging.
To improve skin firmness and elasticity : collagen
If you're looking to strengthen your skin’s structure, improve its firmness, and reduce deep wrinkles, collagen is the best choice. In addition, treatments that stimulate natural collagen production—such as ablative lasers or peels—can be beneficial.
Combining both for a synergistic effect
In reality, the most effective approach to fighting skin aging is to combine both.

What to do to increase hyaluronic acid or collagen in the skin ?

If you want to enhance your skin’s appearance and increase levels of hyaluronic acid and collagen, specific aesthetic treatments exist : Skinboosters for hyaluronic acid, and collagen inducers such as Sculptra.

Skinboosters are hyaluronic acid injections that deeply hydrate the skin and improve its texture and glow, for younger and more radiant skin. Unlike traditional hyaluronic acid injections used to fill wrinkles, Skinboosters are injected more superficially to hydrate and plump the skin without adding volume.

Sculptra contains poly-L-lactic acid, which gradually strengthens the skin’s structure by increasing collagen production. This treatment is ideal for improving firmness and elasticity, and it is particularly effective for areas where skin laxity is more noticeable, such as the cheeks and cheekbones.

Article written by Dr Romano Valeria

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